Located 25 km from Corfu Town, Paleokastritsa is a small village with six beautiful coves, considered one of the most stunning spots on the island. And with all the buzz surrounding Christopher Nolan’s film The Odyssey, it’s the perfect time to immerse ourselves in the world of Ulysses!
According to legend, Paleokastritsa is where Ulysses came ashore during his final stop on his journey. Welcomed by the Phaeacians, he was eventually able to return to his beloved Penelope.
So, let’s enjoy our own little slice of paradise, with a toddler in tow!
* Three Little Birds, Bob Marley *
Living by the rhythm of the sun in Paleokastritsa
Turquoise waters, dramatic cliffs plunging straight into the sea, glorious sunshine… Paleokastritsa looks like something straight off a postcard. But this little paradise is no secret!
From around 10:30 am, tour buses start dropping off visitors at the various coves, particularly at the famous Agios Spyridon Beach. The good news? Travelling with a toddler usually comes with one advantage: you’re already used to getting up early!
Head out at the crack of dawn and you can enjoy an almost deserted beach in the morning. And why not come back for one last swim after dinner? The water is still around 26°C.
The contrast between the crowded beach during the day and these peaceful moments is quite something.
Feel like a sailor in Paleokastritsa
Whether by local boat or pedal boat, there are plenty of ways to explore the caves of Paleokastritsa, including the Nafsika Cave, Saint Nicholas Cave and the famous Blue Eye Cave.
You can book directly on Agios Spyridon Beach, next to the Vrachos restaurant. Boats depart very regularly. Expect to pay around €15 per person, and remember to bring cash.
For older children, a snorkel and mask are also a great way to spot fish in the crystal-clear water. Even without a mask, some fish will come surprisingly close… and might even nibble your toes!
Take a break at Paleokastritsa Monastery
The Byzantine Monastery of Paleokastritsa, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, offers breathtaking views over the bay.
One of its most fascinating sights is the famous “stone ship”, a small rocky islet which, according to legend, is Ulysses’ ship turned to stone.
The monastery is a true haven of peace, with its Mediterranean-style courtyard and charming little church.
Given the August heat, it’s best to visit early. The monastery opens as early as 6:30 am, and the walk uphill takes only around 15 minutes. Even better? Admission is free!
Like a fish in water
When the sun is roasting us like sardines on a barbecue, it’s time to head to the Paleokastritsa Aquarium!
It’s the perfect activity for little ones. And here’s a surprise: you can even touch snakes! The aquarium also houses reptiles, for reasons only they can explain.
Here’s a great tip: buy a combined ticket with the Yellow Submarine, Corfu Sea Discovery. This yellow submarine lets you admire the bay for around 20 minutes before heading down into the underwater viewing cabin, where large glass windows offer incredible views of the seabed. It’s a bit like being an underwater explorer!
It’s a little like scuba diving for beginners… and it’s absolutely beautiful!
Where to eat in Paleokastritsa?
There is no shortage of family-run tavernas overlooking the bay. Even when the food is simple, the views do all the talking!
Taverna Vrachos offers spectacular views of the beach, the cliffs and the turquoise sea. On the other side of the bay, you’ll find Nikos restaurant, among others.
For breakfast, Zefiros Hotel serves a delicious Greek breakfast featuring yoghurt, fresh fruit and little savoury toasts.
And for a tasty gyros (a Greek-style kebab), head to Apollon Restaurant, where you can get one for around €5.
Fancy a drink? Monastre, right next to the monastery, boasts breathtaking views over the bay. Another great tip: the sun loungers at the aquarium are free if you buy a drink, and come with lovely views of the beach.
Where to stay in Paleokastritsa with a toddler?
My favourite? Zefiros Hotel!
This family-run establishment, welcoming guests since 1936, serves an absolutely delicious breakfast and offers family rooms with a mini-fridge and a sea-view terrace.
The family room faces Agios Spyridon Beach directly: the perfect spot to enjoy some olives and feta while gazing out at the sea.
One little tip: ask for room 101. It’s the best located!
Paleokastritsa in August with a toddler: is it a good idea?
As you’ve probably gathered, visiting Paleokastritsa in August with a toddler comes with a few challenges. Scorching temperatures, overtourism, heavy traffic… You definitely have to work around the realities of peak season.
But the trip is absolutely worth it!
The secret is simply to adapt your schedule: head to the beach early in the morning, find some shade during the hottest hours of the day, and venture out again in the late afternoon.
Paleokastritsa takes a little extra effort in August, but slow down, enjoy an almost deserted cove in the early morning or watch the sun light up the cliffs, and you’ll soon understand why this corner of Corfu is so captivating.
In the end, perhaps all we need is to take a leaf out of Ulysses’ book: good things come to those who wait.
* This is an automated translation from the original French article *