Reading time: 4 minutes
Why don’t we take Bordeaux through the prism of art? Here is a non-exhaustive list of places not to be missed for a weekend in the favorite city of the French people.
Darwin, where the world connects
We start, of course, with Darwin, this must-see place in Bordeaux, which yet denotes in the city of wine. In 2010, Philippe Barre launched this somewhat catch-all project that will be a precursor to the green economy and become its symbol of success. This former military barracks of 20,000 squares is home to local vegetable gardens, artisans and designers, organic restaurants, a skatepark…The list is long. But above all, it opens its arms wide to graffiti artists from all over the world by leaving them free spaces of expression to Zarb, Jeff Soto or Laurence Vallières.
The world plays at the guinguette
Not far from Darwin, still on the right bank (more “alternative” than its opposite neighbour) there is a very unusual place, the Guinguette Chez Alriq. It has been around since 1990, when Rose and Alriq saw in this wasteland lost in the middle of nowhere the future place of their dreams. Here they wanted to recreate a popular place to dance, eat boards of nibbles and drink wine, and above all listen to live artists from all over the world. By the way, it was my first concert after the post-lockdown (outdoor space obliges) and I was happy to discover the gypsy jazz of Claribol Stompers.
Mollat, where the world reads
We pass the Lion de Veilhan and we cross the Pont de Pierre (Stone Bridge) to get lost in the 2500 square meters of the Mollat bookstore, and read the booksellers’ favourites scribbled on post-its (mine was Vox, a contemporary dystopian novel in which women are condemned to use only 100 words a day.) Founded in 1886, Mollat is the largest independent bookstore in France. It is also a publishing house, a radio and a podcast. Now that you’re around, if it’s noon enjoy the dish of the day (plat du jour) at 10 euros from the bistro chez Lolotte, and if it’s 4am, try the Dunes Blanches (White Dunes) by Chez Pascal, the delicious sweet specialties of Cap ferret.
Bordeaux can be enjoyed in several shades. As in this other article about Bordeaux, a pure jewel.
+ Music: Claribol Stompers+
Darwin: 87 Queyries Wharf
La Guinguette de chez Alriq: ZA Quai des Queyries, Port Bastide
Mollat: 15 Vital Carles Street
Les Dunes Blanches: 7 bis rue de la Vieille Tour
Chez Lolotte: 2 Rue Louis Combes